Reflow the solder to make sure that the joints are good andmake sure there are no unwanted bridges. Just made this. Can anyone verify that the link Ivlark posted fixes this? Although the schem at FSB is what it is, it seems to me like the 220K should connect 9V rail to the base and not collector.. This isn't in this layout. Even when it's turned off, no sound When I turn it on, nothing happens (well the LED burns, but the pots do nothing and no sound)Probably this is something stupid, but even after reading and trying the 'Faults' section tips, I just fail big time :)Any tips? It's not required.I would check for solder bridges (run an XActo knife in between the tracks) and make sure your transistor is oriented correctly and receiving power (DMM). Only the boost pot seems to have any affect.I'm still debugging, but got the schem from the FSB website. Post the voltages you're getting between the transistor pins and ground, and a close up front and back pic of the board. issues. Hi there.It looks like you may have two possible solder bridges. Now you have two 80uf caps. But they have plenty. Will experiment some more. Ahh ok I might try swapping the 3n3, It's probably meant to be thin like Brian Mays nasal tone. And one group was called 0805 and the other one 1205 or something what's the differece? Naga itself makes any gain amp sound proper. have you tried flipping the transistor? Leave legs until a space is selected for the new creations place. only subs were 47uf for 40 and I didn't have an A500K for range, so I used an A250k-- the range still seems quite functional with the 250. may swap it with a 500 once I have one just to hear the difference. What are the 3 letter semi circle diodes and why are they never referenced on the bottom? BC547 sounded pretty interesting when the orientation was flipped - and very low noise - but sounded a bit gated. hey! There are a couple in there that have been on my to-build folder for a whileI bet you can't slow it down to only 10 per month :D+m. I used the Offboard guide/schematic as shown on this website. Videos on youtube on how to do it. I have built this vero , but i would like to ask you for help. It's too abrupt. I built one of these and its amazing! Plus Heat and Boost are in reverse. You can see if that is the cause by disconnecting the LED and seeing if you're still experiencing the popping. I am a total beginner, and it is not easy for me to choose the components. . So glad I picked this one. So, I tried my assembly with a 9V battery : no parasitic noise anymore, and a pedal that functions well.Then, I tried with an old Boss electric power (PSA-230G), once again, the pedal was working well.I did this assembly in a box 1590A, I will send later a link to show a picture of it.I enjoy my new pedal, it sounds great !Thank you for all the work of creating the layout. It's exactly in between the two values so either will do the trick. the only different component value i used on my build is that 40uF. Now, I will probably try to build myself an FA-1 (U2 fan). hello everybody have a couple of quick questions if anybody is up for it. I've emailed you about this mate but though I'd post it here to in case anyone else would have an ideaI'm having a really strange issue with the Naga Viper boost. That would be super useful for me.Am I right in thinking that the heat pot is wired so it's just a variable resistor so even it was wired in the wrong way it would still function alright? What you do is: solder a 33uf and a 47uf cap in parallel (plus leg to plus leg, - leg to - leg)creating one 80ufcap. SHO also makes this noise. I build this pedal and it sounds great!! I've also added a 1M anti-pop resistor. Thanks. I have tried flipping the transistor and checking if I have the one way caps in the wrong way. Two things: When I turn up the range I get a huge volume drop. Longer leg is +.+m. Do that one more time. Seven years on, thanks for the layout for my first treble booster! :)BTW, i used 33 + 10 (with both measuring under the rating) in parallel for the 40After fixing the resistor and reversing boost/Heat, it works. But Mamat above tried the input resistor and still experienced the popping, which suggests the popping could be coming from the LED. I'll change it.--- two minutes later ---Yup. Will it work for lm386 ones like as a boost/2nd channel for a purple plexi? Update #2: okay, so I thought; maybe I should connect the ON/OFF switch to make the humming noise go away. Turn all the electrolytics around and swap the 9V and ground wires so you have positive to ground. Hi. Heat and Boost need reversing. Galileo would be on the list, so as SD1, Tube screamer, Stuff for U2 music :))Let's see first this "simple one". The 200th verified layout was less than 2 months ago though so we could hit the 300 well before Christmas at that rate. Tayda jacks aren't the best, but they are usable. I replaced the input cap blend with that of the DAM Red Rooster (4n7/2u2, 100kB pot), and it goes from a snarly boost to a farty, undefined mess with the 2.2uf input cap. When I was doing it I noticed about 5 older layouts that I knew had been verified but not updated so I changed them which gave us an extra boost. / A-4518C7 / 47u / A-4518Q1 / 2N222A / A-113Range / 500K Log / A-1914Heat / 1K lin / A-1962Boost / 10K lin / A-1961Input Jack / A-4556 (or need a stereo one ? I just did this one. :o). Thanks a lot for this. A++. There's no reason why not, it's just a transistor at the end of the day even if it runs on different principles, although they usually need some bias tweaking to get them to work properly. It's the 3n3 that you'd change, 5n is the traditional Rangemaster value, but can you dial it in better with the Range pot? I've had a really close look at the build for any faults or wrong componets, double checked solder joints and tried substituting transistors and pot values. I want to be sure that I will order the right components (from france)Could you please gives me some details on what to order, especially the capacitors. Hi!!! http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k543/jd_roost/IMAG1192-1Small.jpgNext to my Hwy 89. Have you knifed between the rows? I built mine with a 2N4401. Also cleans up well when the guitar volume is rolled off. Another example indeed uses 4k7 and 100nf as values. A super useful tweaked classic. You wouldn't think this pedal works well on bass. but it's actually surprisingly good! After three shots at soldering and hooking up everything as cleanly as possible, I have a finished product that is fairly quiet and operational. So if you have good luck, or bad luck for that matter, then please let me know by dropping a comment in the topic. Is the original do this? Can't wait to try this with other dirt pedals! Here she is:http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/isolditnj0125/IMG_6091.jpgGet it????? That said, I am getting limited functionality from the pedal; the volume does cut the signal but doesn't really boost much, the gain is so minimal, it doesn't add much at all to the amps gain. measured the 10k pot at 8.9k, added a 1k resistor in series to the 9v rail which did the trick . You can make one with a few alligator clips, your guitar cable, and a 10nf (or close to) cap. http://imageshack.us/a/img716/218/29jy.jpg I used the 4n7 and 100n values and 47uf for both electrolytics . Powered by, Here's a collection of vero (stripboard) and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering many classic and popular effects in growing numbers. !Thank you. Thanks Miro for the reply. HelloI have just finished the assembly of "naga viper". :o), Leave the range as it is. Hi,I'm stuck and can't find the solution so hope you can help me out.I finished the board but as soon as I plug in the guitar at the jack input, no sound. great stuff, thanks again. I didn't have the chance to personally test it yet, unfortunately.Now the question: as I understood, the NV reaches at max +10db. After that it disapear. 0,14 is good enough and that's cheap. That's what I'd use, or socket and try a 33u as well. And You'd think any pedal bought from the big companys should be able to be daisy chained or whatever? I think that the 40u and 47u have to be polarized type, but I am not sure for voltage (16V, 35V, ???? The tone is the most useful part and does shape the sound a bit, but the pedal does not create any of that gain-y fuzz-y goodness you see in the video.Do you guys think this could be a crummy transistor? 0.5mm / 0.2 mm2 cross section ?? I have found that if you want the sound of a certain pedal. Effects and dry signal in parallel, 3 channe A few people have commented on posts asking about offboard wiring. i've already wired a 2M resistor across the input lug and ground on the switch. I have tried three different 2n2222a's in there and the output stayed the same. Ha ha, I should have guessed really! please don't leave us bass players behind ;-). The problem was a frayed wire touching another frayed wire that was soldered in next to it. Whenever I stack a pedal after it, I lose almost all of the signal.Thank you. Well the Range pot should pan from one input cap to the other to change the overall tone, so if you're getting a volume drop I suspect one of the caps will be faulty or you've got a bad solder joint somewhere. But when I looked at 2n2222a it said npn? Thanks. That was my guess but thought I'd ask anyway, thanks :), Just finished this one. fitting a deep blue delay, ts808 + split circuit in the tayda 1590BB, it's quite a challange i must say, i'll finish it tomorrow and up some pics.i've been looking for a treble booster but havn't decided yet but this indeed looks nice and a quick one to build, need one as a birthday present for my fionces brother :), Well.. Sounds great now! Plus i may have to paint my "reverse mosrite" project's body again for a thicker coat :)+m. I'd really like to get that punch letter set with me as the Madamp G2 is eager to get punched lettering on it's box. That unverified tag is awesome thing! Go to 'Electronics 2000' to find out about hooking components in series/parallel for specified values. Hammering in the countryside is much better than here in the city. Just wanted to know if there was a schematic I could look at to help debug. I have the same problem as beedoola: constant noise when the pedal is on, doesn't matter where the knobs are at.However, when I use a battery the noise disappears.My other pedals don't get noisy whatsoever when I use the dc jack.Could it be the filter cap? Many of these have been posted on freestompboxes.org, so check that site out for great discussions on building your own effect pedals. It is possible to reach very good results with minimal work ! There is circuitry that will make the pop completely go away but it compromises the sound of this circuit which is a very raw circuit that relies on the interaction between it and your guitar and amp to do its magic. Yes I think it's this and a CB30, but don't know if there are any value mods or anything so I'm waiting for a schematic. just built this one, it sounds really great! :0), Any chance that 40K elec can be subbed with a 47? This comment has been removed by the author. the OKKO basstard would be a great one too. :o) Thanks for verifying mate, layout updated. At 9V it is good sounding, at 18v it is better sounding(more tightness and definition) but there is a lot more of hum any help??? It was a while ago when I first played it so I'm not quite sure if it's "just me". I'm thinking the 1nf input cap could be messed with to let in more bass? But theres an issue. corrected !It was the led orientation. 1N4001 connected to the +9V is likely polarity protection. The reason I ask is because sometimes this just happens. You could check out these:http://www.banzaimusic.com/Wire-Value-Pack-LY14-MULTICOLOR.htmlhttp://www.banzaimusic.com/Wire-Value-Pack-VP25-MULTICOLOR.htmlhttp://www.banzaimusic.com/Wire-Value-Pack-SC-MULTICOLOR.htmlGood bang for a buck.or. i used a 47uF instead. First trial, not perfect but I am pretty satisfied with the result. The 68K and 220K creates a bias voltage at the base and so although the voltage will be slightly different in yours, I don't think it will be too far away when it comes to the final sound. Sorry i'm new to this. https://www.reddit.com/r/guitarpedals/comments/2qqn75/pedal_making_weird_noise_with_18v_but_not_with_9v/http://www.dinosaurrockguitar.com/forum/index.php?p=/discussion/18719/npd-catalinbread-naga-viper-treble-boosterThanks again for the reply, Best wow effect/useful pedal. You could adding a pulldown resistor by adding something like a 1M resistor from the row the input wire connects and ground. I thought it may be my psu so I tried it with a single adapter with voltage selector. It boosts perfectly my AC30 (liverpool tech 21 clone)and my VHT special 6. 'Of course that might just be 'snake oil' (if you'll excuse the pun!). I've made two of these now, and I had a chance to substitute some other transistors.
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