I was taught..1 full turn, back a 1/4 turn, repeat,add oil, repeat Do you have special taps for drillpresses ? i made a youtube review, might give you a little heads up to what this kit does. Was able to take an under $200 drill press from Lowes and make it into a decent metal cutting machine. I did also have to use a link belt as the one supplied was too long. a minor tradeoff, IMHO considering what you end up with as an end result. So I bought a TECO L510 single phase 115 VAC input VFD and a 1.0 hp 56 frame 3 phase motor to make the conversion. I like how you worked out the problems as you Progressed. Most of the treadmill motors that I have seen are rated at somewhere between 1.5 & 4HP. This kit uses cold rolled steel shafting, high quality cast-iron block mounted greasable ball bearings, and ships raw (the main plate is not painted). It works awesome. And yes, they're all slightly different, so you'll have to do the homework you don't want to do. Heres the holes I am trying to drill, and the kit that I received: (Diet Coke not included)
Fortunately, Joe over at RogueFab saw my previous thread posts and contacted me about my drillpress issues, and we talked for a while about his reduction kits and how they would be a low-cost way to give me better cutting capabilities, and finish up all of those 2 speedholes in the monolith crossmember. The idea here is to rip off the older power house and replace with a much more powerful brushless hub motor from an old hoverboard. So a while back I watched a YouTube video by Clough42 where he installed a new 3 phase motor and VFD on his Grizzly lathe, and it go me thinking. like https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33041320042.html although those don't list any voltage rating so I don't know if they'd actually be compatible with your set up. Not clear how the coils are connected. I don't have a problem throwing some money at this old drill press as it has served us well over the years. After all the aggravations Ive dealt with through the years with the high speed low torque slowest setting of the machine I was blown away. I did something similar (but a lot less elegant) with my drill press about 10 years ago using a Teco FM50 VFD. Besided we will also make a dedicated battery pack which can provide us further extended operating time and also added with a BMS unit so that we wont drain the battery packs. One other thing, just forget about trying to put the top cover back on. Thanks guys! This is mostly for fun and to see what all I can do (much like most of us and our E30's). Next we glued the rotor to the the shaft adapter and drilled six holes for mounting both of them together. I've used it for hole saws, a Procunier No 3 tapping head, and drilling thousands of holes and it hasn't skipped a beat! I had to modify the pulley's 5mm key to fit the 3/16" groove on the motor shaft. Now to mount the stator we need to remove the shaft and the holder from the centre of the stator. Well like all the crazy project ideas we got, there is always a problem waiting right in the middle of the project, so there are two of them. I did the same thing on one of my drill presses and I can assure you will not regret it. The one we initially decided to go with is a cheap Chinese one thats avliable to drive hoverboard motor. Some disassembly and fabrication of mounts and pulleys is definitely required. I can stall the 2hp motor on my lathe if not in backgear at low rpm. Monday morning I get a delivery with my drill kit!!! The rotor along with the shafty adapter is then slided onto the shaft and we tightened the mounting nut in place. Next the rotor holes were enlarged to 5mm and we tapped the threads inside the shaft adapter. Was a easy install and performs flawlessly. 3phase motors are cheap on eBay. Drilling holes from 5/8" to 1" in metal used to be a chore, with bits grabbing and getting chipped. I had to switch the VFD to the opposite side as the door latch hit it and the cover wouldn't close. I think you made a good choice going this route. But so far so good. https://youtu.be/buIkQn4W9VI. So the plate will be mounted on top of the bearing holder and later we are going to mount the stator on top of the metal plate. Building handrails for my boss. Turned a ordinary drill press into an incredible machine. Heres an example of how the setup will actually affect my spindle speeds using the slowest pulley combinations:
I have had the DPRK installed for a few years now and it has been a great addition! Being as I am still a little new to the world of the vfd, do I need a two-horse drive to run a one horse motor if my input is going to be 120 volts? I forgot about dual voltage warts, I may replace my battery with one. The only thing that I'd say to be aware of is that this kit is not a 30 minute simple bolt-on job. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. So to increase the speed of the motor what we are going to do is to connect all three sets in parallel andd we are going to do that with all three phase. Next we coupled the rotor to the shafte adapter using six allen screws. Another thing I learned is that its MUCH easier to install this kit if you lay the drillpress down on its face so that you can work on the motor/plate installation horizontally. "Rated" anyway. Nice job. It consists of a large offset pulley mounting plate, and a set of 4:1 ratio pulleys that will cut the speed of the motor down to a fraction of its previous setting (about 25% of original, Id say!).
So we rewired the hub motor. So after drilling more holes, I got everything mounted and wired up everything I could until I mounted it on the drill press. They all assume right hand twist. We made every possible effort to get this thing solved but for the time being the only solution that can help us get through is to grind the rotor!!! Now hopefully I can make them myself. I placed my order Friday for next day delivery, after the mailing cutoff via Internet. On to the reduction kit. Nice. Was a transition era design from the 100/150 design to the mid 70's design. they heat up too fast. I'll report back later after i've had a chance to use it for a few months. As you will notice, the kit doesnt really take up too much extra space and tucks-in pretty nicely. I expect it to last the rest of my life. I purchased a 4:1 speed reduction kit for my old Delta 17-900 drill press. We recently brought a drill press and as we have got a limited budget so that one was found from a scrapyard and later repainted. I was almost ready to order one from EMotors Direct but $280 for a TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooled) motor from them. I was only getting 2 or 3 holes per bit before this kit, now I'm getting around 20 holes per bit. Originally the motor is made for 10 cells which is nearly 42v and provided a decent speed so with the car ESC operating the motor at 6 cells (25.2v) the drilling speed will not be sufficient. Not to mention that with the new setup we can control the speed of rotation accurately and without messing up with the belt and pullies as with the previous setup. With the RC Car ESC this hoverboard motor performed like an unstopabble beast. Late 60's Craftsman if memory serves right. Grand L3560 with LA805 loader, EA 55" Wicked Grapple, SBX72 BB, LP 1272 mower. for example: a 12v starter is a DC permenant magnent motor. Reply I'm pretty bored with isolation so I'm always looking for a project. on Introduction, I love this modification.. jist a tip though use some kind of cutting fluid when drilling steel you will get a lot longer life out of your bits.. keep up the great work. Because of my tiny 3/8 belts ive been having some annoying slippage issues because although the drill press can now put out 4x the torque than before, the belts slip instead of transmitting that torque to the spindle. 580 RPM -> 145 RPM
The idea of being able to drop these speeds in a cost-effective way was very tempting. I found that those foot switches work much better when tapping holes with the drill press because it gives you an extra free hand. I was disappointed that regular drill presses often don't have direction switches. So we switched the ESC with a more powerful RC Car ESC ratted at 150A and 6 cells lipo. Now to drive the ESC manually and controll the speed of the motor we are going to use a servo tester thats goin to provide the required PWM controller to the ESC and help us controll the speed of the chuck accurately and yes without messing up with the mehanical pullies or any gear. To power the brushless motor we are going to use an RC car speed controller rated for 150A and 6 cells(25.2v). Works with nearly all drill presses. I would not have needed to make the mounting bracket if I bought this motor. Now it takes more amount of time for current to travel all three sets as they are connected in series and thus the speed of rotation is very low. 2 years ago After thinking about that for a while I decided I wanted the keep the multi groove pulley to allow for the maximum speed adjust-ability. On top of the fast shipping it also ended up costing more than I paid. I installed the tach pickup in the lower belt housing and glued the magnet to the spindle pulley. Nice conversion. Excellent reduction kit for just about any drill press. Nice work coolest drill press ever ! Hmmmm, i was unaware of this possibility. All in all, none of the issues listed above are rogue fabrications fault, they supplied a kit that does exactly as it says, and does it with a very easy and adaptable installation. I mean. you are using the tool in your shop and not in church.so. honestly, the noise is inconsequential. Very satisfied. First we mounted the stator holder on top of the bearing holder. If I was really concerned, I would just go buy a factory VS drill press. Next to good bits and a good chuck, the DPRK is about one of the best things you can do for a little drill press like this. I didn't realize a 3 phase motor could be had for $40was that a rare deal? Here is the original speed chart for my Delta. Also had to buy new belts to get everything to work. Now before we rip it a part, time to modify the motor. as we all know, REAL metalworking drill presses are a LOT more money than the woodworking ones (I think I paid maybe $300 for this one brand new). Thank you for sharing how you did it. It's a generic kit, so it isnt going to fit on every press the same way. I dont know how you would drill into stainless steel in production without it. Each installation will be different. The end result is I have a standing drill press (with ceiling attachments so it won't fall over) that runs in the 300 rpm neighborhood (don't quote me on that, may be lower) that's got great torque. We have worked with the drill press for our upcoming project to drill a bunch of holes in metal tubing and sheets and this thing can hold upto an hour of drilling time which is more than enough for us. Now as we undo the six allen screws provided on the motor casing and seperated the rotor and stator time to take the hall sensors apart as we will later use a sensorless speed controller.
Since the new motor has a 7/8" (.875") shaft and the old one was 20mm (.790') I planned on just using a single groove pulley on the motor. JavaScript is disabled. I will more than likely be hooking it up into a 240 volt line anyway I'm just curious. I added a 10 ampere mini circuit breaker to protect the dimmer but rarely trip it. It's up to the buyer to decide where to put each pulley, and at what height. check out the. So instead of making a customized adapter what we decided to do is to modify the main shaft pully to act as a holder for the rotor. Drill bits should only go in one direction, Unless you are using a lefthand drill bit. Starter capacitor has failed or if it is centrifugally switched to contacts are dirty or sticking. I've had this project in mind for a while now and finally found great deal on a 1.5 HP three phase motor (thanks Chad).I bought an inexpensive 1.5KW (2 HP) vfd on Amazon as well as an electrical box to house it. I got the motor for $40 and the rest of the stuff including the cable was about $250. I used the belt sander to make a .009" step on one side of the key. https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Univeywords=3+phase+switch&qid=1614108117&sr=8-12, https://www.emotorsdirect.ca/item/teco-rf1-54, https://www.emotorsdirect.ca/item/teco-pdh0034, https://www.amazon.ca/Hallmark-Induords=1.5+electric+motor&qid=1614117088&sr=8-6, https://www.amazon.ca/ALITOVE-Adapter-100-240V-Converter-Security/dp/B07VQHCK6P. Very nice work! You can also see that the sheetmetal pulley tray is interfering with the installation of the rear pulley and belt. Account Upgrades | Donate to Support the Forum! Do you know what wattage the motor is? If you need a puller I can lend you one. Nice work John. I'm now down to a cool 112rpm, and ready to start doing a bit of custom fabrication of my own. To sum it all up, this is a great kit! OrangeTractorTalks brings together Kubota enthusiasts from around the world, into one place, purpose built just for them. Next we mounted the batteries inside the drill press housing thats now empty. I had a $59 Central Machinery (Harbor Freight) 5 speed 8 inch drill press which I decided to soup up. I usually buy NOS motors and used drives. So we did carefully grinded the sides of the rotor and eventually fixed the problem. Thanks RogueFab! We were able to pull in the drilling we used to outsource (although we are a little slow). IMO, it is a basic necessity when drilling metal, which I do a lot of. youve been warned! Previously the drillpress was unable to start spining as we turn the switch one, but this time all we need to do is to turn the know to a particular speed and the chuck starts to spin. The speed controller is mounted over the top plate that we have just cut out of plastic sheet to hold everything temporarily. It's a tight fit and there's no room to really route the wires as neatly as I would like, but it works. The ability to get my drill press down in to usable RPM for some of my heavier duty projects is exactly what I was hoping for. I bought the RogueFab kit and, separately, bought a 6 foot 1 13/16 inch (about 46mm) steel tube and one other 2" pulley. The quality is great. On the other hand, it will give you the option of reverse to center bits and back out taps. It would be cut up like crazy and have trouble staying on, I would imagine. Fabricating mounts and brackets and whatnot doesn't scare me or drive me away from doing something I just need to weigh the time investment versus buying something that already fits my needs. Now, bits cut like they are supposed to and holes are very clean. Didnt seem real. The only other type I found were cast iron and I didn't want to try to alter those. Very impressive. Currently the drill is powered by a bulky induction motor, transmitting the power through a pair of pullies that allows to spin the chuck at various speed and torque. 2 years ago, Most likely it would be that the starter capacitor has failed, because this is what gets the rotor spinning. Not cheap but I only paid $300 for the drill press so I think it was worth it. I've had the DPRK for a couple of years now and I consider it one of the best add on purchases to any tool I have in my shop. Being able to remote the vfd control panel is a nice feature. one small thing i would like to see is possibly the allen head adjustment screws changed out for thumb screws, but that is a minor nit-pick and something i can do myself. Luckily he works here. Excellent! Question I am a fan of industrial grade DC motors and varIable speed drives on drill presses. I had to make a mounting bracket for the box, so I used a piece if 1/8" plate out of my scrap bin and bent it 90 so I could bolt it to the motor mount and the back of the box. I made a new control panel and mounting box for the FWD/REV switch, ON/OFF switches, speed control potentiometer and a digital tach display. Besided that with the direct drive mechanism not only the noice levels are low but the reliablity of the whole mechanism has been increased significantly. He suggested a 4:1 reduction kit based on my particular drillpress (Delta, Model 17-965) and a few days ago the kit arrived via UPS it gave me some motivation to get back into the shop and start spinning a few wrenches. It is much quieter than the induction motor that came with the tool. The motor has a 4.5" raised flange centered around the 7/8" shaft and a 4 hole bolt hole pattern. I got the used motor from Crosche here in the forum classifieds. The final shot (right):
1 year ago I would really like to make this project and have the speed adjust ability on my drill press. I got a 1hr Baldor NOS for $75 shipped about a year ago. I needed to lower the RPM of my drill press to allow for using a 3/4 inch annular cutter for making holes in half inch steel. Drill Press Reduction Kit, lower RPM, more torque! Live and learn. Also, I guess there are cheaper options for the ESC than the one you used? Looks very professional, maybe you have a new sideline. A nice problem to have.. Want to slow down your drill press? The plate is a little bit of a pain to get in place while holding the motor, but other than that, i didn't have any issues. Did you make this project? But believe its almost impossible to get it solved otherwise as we dont own a lathe at this moment and the lather workers in our area are going to further ruin this whole unit. This gives you a place to drop on the large 8 speed reduction pulley. So we are going to use a 6mm thick metal plate with a dia of 125mm to act as the holder for the stator. The other benefit that I havent tested yet is the increase in useable torque. The previous setup was unable to drill hole above 10mm in metal sheets but with the new powerhouse we first drilled hole upto 20mm using a step bit without any problem. First drilling i did with the slower speed really highlighted the torque increase. I received a phone call a few minutes later telling me I had missed the cutoff. I might keep this one as my drill press is pretty old and the motor is super loud. It has gobs of low end torque. When my uncle came to see it, he said that the electronics had to be replaced. there is a small 2 new pulley that gets installed on the motor itself, and the pulley stack that used to live on the motor, is transferred on top of that large 8 pulley wheel.
You are using an out of date browser. To test the drill press we charged the batteries and started testing. I was toying with a conversion myself to 'learn' VFD but some of the disassembly & new mounting issues made me think it wasn't going to be quick job. 5 stars for the Drill Press Reduction kit! That might be a fun project. I'd attach some pictures if I could, but I don't see a spot to do so. Question wish everything was brushless these days, such great tech. Nice.. yes you have heard it right and yes its crazy. Its been a rough few weeks and I havent been making any efforts to get out into the garage to work on the truck project. i am kinda surprised that you purchased the parts off ebay when they are so readily availible to you locally. I haven't thought of using an old treadmill motor and variable speed. The frustration I was having at my old setting of 215 RPM was not only the excessive speed, but the fact that the cutter would drag and eventually stall-out halfway through the cut. Step 1 is pulling the motor from the drillpress, though to be honest I probably could have installed the new plate without unwiring it completely. Not sure how it would work but putting a twist in the belt so you have a X in between the 2 pulleys would run it in reverse.. i always go to work and use the mill if i have to use left hand bits. You are using an out of date browser. About: Being a science student i love to indulge in projects related to engineering as i love to learn things practically https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33041320042.html. Great addition to the shop, allows much safer and more accurate drilling as well as longer intervals between resharpening. They told me it wouldn't get to me until Tuesday and asked if that was ok or if I wanted a refund. A good thing to remember if you're doing something like this is to be sure to get the zinc pulleys as they are very easy to bore out. I've had my DPRK for about 3 years now. To drive the chuck directly we need to mount the stator arround the main shaft. Compared to the previous setup which is corded induction motor so we are bound to stay close to the socket but with the current setup we can operate cordlessly and with aconsiderableweight loss we can now move the drill press arround our workspace as per our convinience of working. I set the pulleys to the slowest speed (54 RPM) and turned on the press and its amazing how slowly the 2 holesaw is spinning now. From there it went to my "quill" axle (if I'm using the proper terminology) where I had bored out a 4 inch pulley I bought from RF to fit the roughly 7/8 inch (22 mm) axle. You must log in or register to reply here. I should be able to use some 18V batteries to get make a battery powered drill press. The next step is to install the pillowblock bearings and shaft onto the offset pulley plate. Each battery is a three cell (11.1v) and thus we have to connect both of them in series. You can get around the low end torque problem of an AC motor, but it gets expensive. Your email address will not be published. Do you know what the hub motor's original specs were for voltage and amps?
You may have to purchase a separate belt if the one we provide does not fit. The nut on top of the pulley is left hand thread but is only made of plastic. So we cut down the top half of the pully and later we flush cut the top of the adapter so help the rotor sit as close to the centre as possible. Your email address will not be published. It will be nice when we can get out and patronize local businesses again. So, the way a drill press works is when you turn it on, you then have to manually spin the Chuck in the direction you want it to spin. A lack of motivation. The arbor and everything is in decent shape it just majorly lacks in power and using a power strip for a power switch lately is getting old. Just for grins I punched a 5/8 hole in a 1/2 inch plate without a pilot hole. I really like to increase power as I increase down pressure, and also use a soft touch while tapping, as well as reversing instantly. I haven't checked into it. Even if they can only reliably deliver half of what is on the nameplate/sticker, it's probably more than the stock motor. The drill press can go forward or reverse. This kit is well thought out and came with every thing, including great instructions. I can easily count the revolutions as they spin by, and theres a chance that it might even be a bit TOO slow at its slowest setting. A little overkill on the size of the steel but it was laying around. Thanks for posting and the documentation! on Step 6. In this instructable we are going to address all these problems and do our best to bring this beast to life again. Trying to hold the all of those heavy parts up with one arm, while installing nuts and bolts with the other hand is nearly impossible. Buy it and have fun with your project.
Thankfully this time we got the rotor spining perfectly arroun the stator without touching it. There are better ones but that will work and be reliable. Absolutely amazing customer service!!! Inside we have got the stator wrapped with enammled copper wire. Since I don't have any keyway broaches I did some careful measuring and found that the keyway in the pulley would still be deep enough to accept the key after removing .085" from the bore so I bored it on the lathe. If the power supply from the treadmill is missing or unusable, one solution is to use a 1000 watt rotary dimmer and a full wave bridge rectifier. Can you make a diagram, please. I really need to start collecting old hover boards. Loop has it right. The front belt has a little more slack than the rear belts but so far it seems like its going to be OK.
I have a project of drilling around 300 1 1/16" holes into 1.5" schedule 80 316ss pipe. Great customer service, and quick shipping, has this in under a week to Alberta, Canada. Now with the ESC connected to the motor and the batteries attached we are ready to test this thing out. There is not good place to pry under either pulley. The reason being the face that this thing has got plenty of torque and these days you can easily find one for cheap as well. It requires a fair amount of consideration and time spent figuring out how to apply the parts to your specific drill press. I am buying almost everything online these days so it came from Amazon. First, I am not trying to optimize for cost or whatever here, but just having some fun with one of my home workshop's tools which gets periodic use. The only real tricky part is figuring out which way to install the large motor plate (pillowblocks facing forward vs. facing rearward) as this will affect the belt lengths and tension that you can apply to the forward belt that turns the drill spindle. I didn't understand why, but after a few days our drill press stopped working and I was very scared because I thought I had done something wrong. Had to fabricate a couple of pieces to get things mounted on a fifty year old craftsman.
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