Vallejo have been making paints since 1965 originally for cartoons in a time before animation or computers. I may actually use this recipe, or a close version of it, again. Display as a link instead, Vallejo's whites also tend to be too chalky to get a nice finish, so I use Skull White and Bleached Bone as my only non-Foundation Citadel paints. You know, that point in your hobby life where you know the Citadel range inside and out. I am very new to airbrushing (I started using one about a week ago and it made me very cross) and, I will confess, Im also extremely bad at it. Model colors are a bit thicker (read: need to be thinned more), and higher in pigment (or so I think for most colors). I guess that's why they are less bright and cartoony, because they are used by people trying to create a "realistic" affect. I'm no where near as critical of Vallejo Game Colour (VGC) as /u/redpiano was - they have their flaws which largely boil down to "some need to be stirred rather than just shaken", but are great other than that. Because the paints are that much thinner, youll find yourself having to apply more layers than you might be used to in order to build up a good, solid colour on a figure. I still loath the silly dropper bottles Vallejo use. My collection includes a good number of each line, quite a few Pro paints, and a few straggler GW's (all of which are now in nice dropper bottles so I don't have to throw them around to open those aweful old jars). Basecoating with the non-metallic Game Color paints is an exercise in patience and restraint. And like with most of this range, It also has a slightly glossy finish to it, which you can make out on the Leprechauns hat and boots in the image above. September 15, 2021 I'll probably start with a set of 16 game colour paints (modified from the basic set). Girl Painting on youtube is great for brush work, Buy Painted is great for airbrush work, and Awesome Paint Job / other WGC is great for both, off the to p of my head. There are a couple in this range that do take well to drybrushing and arguably with enough practise and time, all can be drybrushed fairly well. However, from the Game Color line, Beasty Brown and Scorched Brown are must have colors for me. With the exception of certain peculiar colors, I've found them to roughly the same pigment strength when thinned to the same level. For example MM has the Vallejo Model Color Range Box Set for $220. Closed captioned for the thinking impaired. your likes/ dislikes comparisons ?? I have 40 pots of colours and washes on my painting table, but I only use maybe half of those 99% of the time. First, I tried Goblin Green and Escorpena Green on a WePrintMiniatures Leprechaun on Pogo Stick. I figure the game ones are better suited to more sci fi wargames. They also have a wider range including some great muted colors. If anyone has any thoughts or resources I'd appreciate it. Their black here is a much more blue-black than, say, Citadels Abaddon Black as an example. Looking for a new range of paints to keep the unpainted plastic hordes at bay? Thanks for all that. I probably don't use half of mine on a regular basis, either. Anyway back to the point: Instead of opening, this particular jar of bleached bone decided to put up a fight and launch itself out of my hand across the kitchen, rebound off the wall and on it's return knocked my current lovingly painted miniature to the floor and cracked a Tea Mug, before splitting itself on the floor. But I'm a paint whore. Soo back to the point ( no really this time ) I really need help on choosing the right series of colour to change to, and would appreciate all of your views and feelings on the Vallejo range of colour. I do use a lot of colors, but not 220. In fact, across all the colours I tested, the blues were by far my favourites. It's always easier to thin paint then thicken it. White can be a bit hit and miss, either being too watery or too clumpy. And the DakkaDakka Painting and Modeling forum is really helpful for advice and constructive criticism, though I haven't been there for a while. The browns seem to have the best consistencies: not only are they good and smooth, but they also react very well to being thinned with water and maintain a good spread of colour when applied to a figure. I appreciate why some might not like them. But, if you want to continue to grow as a painter and hobbyist, youre one day going to have to take the plunge and leap from the Citadel nest. In stark contrast to the regular paints, the Game Color Metallics are incredibly thick and heavy and, whilst you could probably get away with not thinning down the non-metallic colours if you really wanted to, youd be a fool to try the same thing with their metallic counterparts. The yellow paints, are horrible, the only good yellow from the line that I know of is Gold Yellow, it's great for NMM gold, but the rest of the yellows? Paints, Reviews Learn how your comment data is processed. VoltorRWH ). Reds, yellows and oranges are, once again, the main culprits. In my experience, Game Color have a big problem with the medium. I use GW fleshy colours instead (transfered into nifty. There will be people who disagree with me, who hate the browns and blues, but love the yellows. The likelihood is, as youre plummeting towards the ground, youll hit the Vallejo branch at least once, if not several times, on the way down. I prefer model colour over game because they are thicker. There are some great colors in the line, but most of them are horrible. I noted above that, on the whole, paints in the Game Color range are quite thin. Neither range has inks, though there is a range of transparent colors in the Model color line. Even in a line of 220 colors, I don't find what I want so I still have to mix. The blues and aqua-toned greeny blues were stand-out and were an absolute pleasure to paint with. 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. Especially as I can't see why I'd want to have one single base colour for some of these miniatures.I'm not even sure if there is a point to a base colour, unless I'm doing something that's predominantly one colour (ie may be pointless on Perdita Ortega, but good on, say, a Sorrow). There are a number of VGC, VMC, VMA and VGA sets to choose from iirc so if you like that idea I'll happily look through and recommend some. Comments are always welcomed. Consistency is a little bit of an issue with some of the paints. Thicker, gives me more control on how I want to dilute the paint and with. You cannot paste images directly. Paste as plain text instead, The Game ranges are vibrant sci-fi and fantasy colours, the Model colours are more muted/realistic colours. They are spectacular layer paints and are ideal for blending. Just remember if searching for these on your favourite hobby stores, its Game Color, not Game Colour. I prefer the Game Colour range, just because I like the brighter colours. Fantization sells the full set of 220 bottles for about $526. The browns are pretty good for the most part, again they're good for gold NMM work or leather etc. It just takes several more coats. These orders are shipped to the FLGS with regular stock, so I pay no shipping. The Lord-Imperatant you see below has been painted almost entirely with Vallejo paints in this box (some Mechanicus Standard Grey and Dawnstone on the base, some Screamer Pink and Warpfiend Grey on the purple leather of the handles on his weapons, and a dash of Apothecary White on his hair). You cannot paste images directly. They do have a couple of skin tones that don't just reek of orange. When you water Game Color down, it seems that after a while the color is not properly diluted. I still use GW inks on occassion, and still have a few select colors that I use that I just haven't replaced with vallejo. The durability you mention is a non issue - the only durability "problem" with Vallejo is their airbrush primers which need to sit for 24 hours before painting over them, and even then they don't have the "bite" of rattle can primers - but it's perfectly fine if you paint over them and then varnish, just not to play with them only primed as it will eventually start chipping off with use. You can post now and register later. The oranges are awful also. Foundation paints are supposed to make things go faster- instead of using a couple of coats of normal paint (or putting it on so thick it starts to obscure detail- yuck), you can use one coat of Foundation paint and get the same post-primer coverage. What's the benefit of using these over just a normal colour as my base colour? Overall, model colors seem to be the most popular among the painters I've talked to. The main issue with Game Color is that they are incredibly inconsistent, not only in how they look dried, but in terms of the coverage of the paint, the actual consistency of each individual liquid, it's absurd really.. Is there a reason to have both? So I'm brand new to Malifaux, and I've picked up a Perdita Ortega box set as well as a Pandora one (no particular reason except they were cheap, 2nd hand but unpainted). One tube of Windsor and Newtons Payne's Gray. Still, Id be inclined to go over some parts of this again with a regular paintbrush just to sure-up some of the most prominent highlights. Vallejo metallics their golds in particular are leaps and bounds ahead of Citadel metallics when it comes to layering. The metallic colours in the Game Color range will require a little more thinner than the regular paints, but youll be able to master some interesting colour transitions if you stick with it and keep practising. To begin with, I tested a couple of paints through an airbrush. If you want advice on "essential" paints to cherry pick I can work up a list of that too from multiple Vallejo ranges as I have VGC, VMC, VGA, VMA and Liquid Gold (and GW, Army Painter, P3 and some others too). Most of us around here (including me of course) use some of each. A community for painting miniatures and models. Unlike Citadel Colour Base-branded paints, which are designed specifically to be applied as a basecoat, hence their thickness, Vallejos Game Color range does not handle basing in quite the same way. Youll need to use the smallest amount of thinner you can, and then gradually add small, individual drops of red to get the consistency just right. There is absolutely nothing wrong with mixing the two ranges, so I'd recommend you pick whichever colors you like best from each range and build your own collection. Then there's Vallejo skin tones, Vallejo Opaques, Vallejo Game/Model Colours, Vallejo Airs, washes/fluorescents/inks, and odds and ends. Sorry for getting 2 big posts (so far) to read through ; p. edit: Here's a shot of my paint collection from a while ago, it's increased since then but this gives a rough idea. What do I use? Youll be able to grab the Vallejo range from just about any reputable non-Warhammer hobby store. Will probably get some artist acrylic metalics - there are some paints with REALLY fine metalic grains. The greens are good and bad, jade green, scurvy green, goblin green, sick green, are great, so is turqoise, but their dark green is basically just a bottle of matte medium, it takes me a dozen coats to cover well with dark green and because of the thick gummy consistency of that particular paint, it doesn't thin down very well. (I also use Doc O'Brien's weathering powders.). Primarily, how accurate is this color conversion chart? I see Vallejo do About 220 bottles in the Model colour range and 60 or so in Game colour, but I have many questions: Are these the same range in different bottles ? That said- they have held up and are very good paints. My FLGS sells Vallejo for $3.30 a bottle. Still, those few paints aside, some of the paints are superb the greens, the browns, the blues and the greys in particular but others require a bit of patience. There are some standout colours that work really well or look really good though, such as Game Colour/Air Charred Brown for a rich brown or VMA Hull Red to shade your reds. Of course I do end up with leftover paint on the pallet, but thats a small price to pay for proper paint consistency. Sure, you can do it as evidenced by the images below but it might just be easier to reach for a less watery paint in the first instance and save yourself some time, and stress. They also have packs of colors that are a good value. If I were doing Perdita I would use something like Cold Grey and Regal Blue for jeans, bloody red and white for a pink shirt, and bonewhite and some sort of brown for her hat. Clear editor. Bad Behavior has blocked 2078 access attempts in the last 7 days. Hmmm, Model colour does have a tendency to rub off before you have time to seal it. Warhammer 40,000 Imperium Delivery 1: Issues 1-2 Review, Warhammer Imperium Magazine Issues 11 14 Contents Confirmed. I'll vote on Model Colors only because I prefer a wider range of color options. The reds in the Game OClour range strike me as being exceptionally watery, so getting them a good consistency for airbrushing is difficult. IT does include some brushes, varnishes, and medium, but I think I can pick up those for less than the ~$60 difference. GoldenSkeleton, Paint is one of those personal things. My videos from exploring abandoned buildings, 40k battle reports and airsoft. I can't speak to GW or P3 paints, but Vallejo paints are way too thick to use out of the bottle anyway. I also use oil based enamels, artists inks ans any thing else I have happened to find works for me. I'm going to agree and disagree with Whiz. You wouldnt know the difference between those paints on his armour and robes and their Citadel counterparts. I seriously struggled to do this, not only due to my inexperience with OSL (this was the first time Id ever attempted it) but also because I really struggled to get the paints to do what I wanted to on the figure. Pasted as rich text. Given how good Vallejos Metal Color Airbrush range is, this shouldnt really have been a surprise. Looking to spread your wings and fly from the Citadel Colour nest? I don't think I've painted two minis with the same flesh recipe. I've been painting for a couple of years now and have yet needed to buy a 2nd bottle of something I've run out of. I'm pondering ordering the 72 bottle kit but not sure which one to get. Layering is when the Vallejo Game Color paints really come into their own. Which range you choose does largely boil down to what colours you need. I use both model and game color. Its the consistency again. My plan for now was probably to buy all (or at least most) of the model color paints on one of these conversion charts. anyone else use Coat d'arms paints? Or just looking for something new to try? Wonder how he does it? You cant go far wrong with Vallejo. I have moon yellow and lemon yellow both if you'd like a comparison picture or something. You can take some of the orange out of the vallejo skin tones with select browns. If I had all of those 220, I'd probably never use more than half of them. I honestly think my brain rot began by using those when I was new to this hobby as a lad. I use a combination of both. Can't wait to lay my hands on higher-quality paints in the fleshtone color range I love. That's a great tip! For example, at one point during testing, I used the same amount of water to thin down two very similar amounts of Chainmail Silver and Glorious Gold. Before we get started, there a few things to be aware of with Vallejos Game Color range. I was a big fan of their violet, and used it all these years until I finally ran out. I use mainly GW fundations, washes and a few P3 which I can thin as much as I like(those P3 pots are killing my thumb to open though, not a good system at all!!). Powered by Invision Community. With all the metallic colours I tested, I needed only the slightest amount of water to get the metallic colours thinned down appropriately. If I had the extra cash, it's a good deal. I don't have an alcohol colors. I found the metallic paints actually went through the airbrush and onto a figure very well. VMC is a tad thinner than GW paint which is pretty good. please let us know in the comments. I was using their Tallarn flesh (flesh colors are already challenging due to pigment load) and noticed after a couple of weeks of painting- the stuff in the bottle was useable but it flowed more like tar. I would use whatever works, I tried Vallejo a long time ago & was not sold on them so use a mixture of Miniature Paints, GW mostly metallics, Foundry which are a lot like GW, & Tamyia especially the Gloss medium & smoke. This does however have the sideeffects that the color rubs off easy which isn't good for wargaming. Do I need to get foundation paints for base colours? What a bargain. Of course, if you're competent in mixing your own colors, you may not need that many paints. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. Also, being thick the paint doesn't go out of the bottle and into, the cap and make a big mess (albeit a smaller mess than GW pots), Well that's all, gotta study for final now :). You could buy a 100 bottles of vallejo paint at full retail and still pay less than the full set. Because the Vallejo Game Color range are, on the whole, very thin, the non-metallic paints arent the best for drybrushing. This makes them perfect for gradually shifting or building colour on the surface of a miniature. The red did not go on as well. Trick I learned at ReaperCon, if you're going to do this, use a brush, and gently "paint" the area you want to rub off with your brush. Because the consistency of the paint is that much more aqueous, it can be quite difficult to get a decent amount of paint onto the brush for drybrushing. Restore formatting, I'm probably going to stick with plain old brush for now but might look in to airbrush in the future. In the Model Range, What are the differences between the Acrylic Metallics and the alcohol based metallics ? Clickthesharelinksatthebottomofthisscreen(orontheleftforcomputersandtablets), Want to keep updated with the site? Secondly both ranges of Vallejo colors are very good. They also say you can use alchohol to take off stray bits of paint. The metalics aren't worth it. Result of Painter : "there's got to be an easier way ". Because they are meant for Historical modelers, railroaders, and folks like that, Model Colors have a lot of colors that can be used for historical uniforms. Don't do it. A couple of colours Bone White, Orange Fire , and the yellows in the range spring immediately to mind come out very unevenly and can be a little lumpy. By CapnBloodbeard, January 17, 2012 in Malifaux Discussion. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. Do I need to get foundation paints for base colours? Besides the difference in colors there's also a different binding agent in them. Also, when I eventually decide on colours (bloody hard to decide, once I choose a colour then I have to pick one of a dozen or more shades! That said, I will say this: If you're serious about painting and you can afford to buy the whole line of Model colors in one fell swoop, I'd do it. Vallejo Model colour black is fantastic. Its worth noting that the paints well be testing in this review come from the Vallejo 72.172 Game Color Mega Paint Set. As you may suspect, though, there are certain paints within the range that are better at being drybrushed than others. The model colour line are darker colours with more intermediates for blending, layering etcLots of browns, ochres, greens, greys and so on. Overall, its a pretty mixed picture: some of the paints are fantastic for airbrushing, others arent so good. It will take off the stray bits, but also the color underneath. However, I would never need that many colors. again, I went about my modified method of opening the jar using a towel, some nutcrackers, brute force and of course last but not least a rubber glove. The range on the left is Minitaire, an airbrush line from Badger. In general, I prefer Vallejo Model Colour because they are flatter than most of the other paints out there. They photograph beautifully. If you get the opportunity to try them out, make sure you do so. They're also much more forgiving if you're not experienced with thinning your paints (with your 15 year break) as they come pre-thinned for airbrush use and can usually be used straight form the bottle with good results, although you'll often want to thin them a little still. 4 ranges of washes and VGA has been added to it since then along with extra colours here and there. I'm always trying different combinations. Model colors are a thinner consistancy (not that this makes much of a difference since they still need to be thinned), and still have decent pigment for most if not all colors. I think the lesson here is that if youre tempted to try some new techniques, do so with paints youre more familiar with. I wish I had. Be wary, though: whilst you might suspect you actually need a reasonable amount of water to get these paints to their optimum consistency, you do not. They're good for the price per volume and range of colours but definitely on the glossy side so I still prefer to use Vallejo Airs where possible, but they have their uses. Side Note - Bone White from the Game Colors line is also a great color. Wow, Flynn. The transtion from one to the other will be easy, since they are colors you are already familiar with. Chainmail silver drank the water up and thinned down beautifully, but Glorious Gold became a frustrating runny puddle on my wet palette. I haven't had any trouble replicating muted, earthy tones when I've needed to. As youd expect, though, some colours base easier than others. That would bring the price closer to $2.60 a bottle. It seems, side by side, the pigment count is much lower on the gw's than on the reaper or vallejo line Tammy Haye did a pretty good write up in Harbinger #8, comparing different paint lines. If you want to go "all in" - which if you really like the hobby I'd recommend, pick up one or more sets of paint (and I'd highly recommend an airbrush setup for ~$150). Most of the paints are a semi-gloss when they dry, some are gloss, some are matte. Sorry if this is posted elsewhere, I did search and check the sidebar but didn't find anything. Flesh tones are okay, I would say Scale75 has the best flesh colors from what I've used, either that or Vallejo Panzer Aces flesh tones. Press J to jump to the feed. If you don't get anything else, buy the Smoke. This is most noticeable with the brightest colours. However, I've had multiple issues when thinning their paint. Painters of all skill levels are welcome! I threw mine in a box and stopped using them, that's how bad they are, they cover like torn tissue paper. They are thin, and are designed to be used to build up multiple thin layers of paint on a miniature, or to be blended with other colours in order to create smooth transitions between colours and shades. I think it comes down to the amount of pigment in the colour. These will be used on gaming minis - think games like Blood Rage, Zombicide, Kingdom Death, Reaper Bones, Specter Ops, Wrath of Kings, etc. On the Vallejo website. I'd probably go that route barring a better alternative. I'm actually not concerned about matching GW colors, but I don't want to buy both Pale Flesh and Light Flesh if they really are the same color. Everything I'd have said in comparison has been said. For the Vallejo colors listed here, how accurate is this chart, and if you had to choose one vs the other which would you choose and why? It finally occurred to me that if I had simply shelled out the money for the full set all at once, I'd probably have saved myself a bit of money. I'm just having a hard time deciding what paints to get for them. VMA metallics are generally really well regarded, especially the silvers, as being the best that aren't alcohol based like the Vallejo Liquid Gold range which are harder to work with but do provide a beautiful metallic. Everything from tabletop wargames to board games, display pieces or just for fun! I like to cut it with water and flo aid and then I use a wet pallet. Which should you get? The P3's are awesome but I still like having a very broad range of pre mixed colors. Upload or insert images from URL. They just wouldnt be my go-to range. May 25, 2004 in Tips & Advice: Painting. I then had a go with another WePrintMiniatures figure: Salome. As youd expect, though, some colours are better than others. But either way, it is a hugely inconsistent paint line in terms of how it dries as well as how it handles, a lot of the colors are very thick but very transparent and thinning them down to a nice flowing consistency makes them basically useless because of how poorly they cover, others are fine like the browns and reds. 0, Please Note: This site uses affiliate links. Also, Game Colors are formulated with an agent that gives them a hard shell when applied to plastic or metal miniatures. They're great to work with and colour match the non-air versions, with the main downside being they're not as good to drybrush with if you do that much. For Vallejo Model colors, I've found mixing brown sand with either flat flesh or basic flesh tone works well. They always come out wrong. This actually caused me a few issues, as the amount of water you need to thin these down to their optimum consistency still actually varies within the range. Don't do it. Having realised that Yes! As such, be prepared to take some time and care thinning these down appropriately in order to ensure you can apply an even and consistent coat across your miniatures. They also say you can use alchohol to take off stray bits of paint. At some point, he also managed to get a Master's degree by writing about Medieval zombies. As far as I remember, the Game Colour are the more cartoony colours/vibrant, bright etcAlmost a copy of the Citadel colours. For instance, the VGC white doesn't cover as well as GW Skull White in my experience. However, on the other side of this coin, the semi-glossy texture of the medium does allow and encourage a smoother blend if you are aiming for airbrush level transitions. I'll hit up the LGS that sells VGC and see if he can't talk his supplier into slipping a bottle or 2 in with his next order. theres no U. Even if I bought them, I would still need to buy a few of the Game Colors I like and a few of the varnishes. The majority of the paints in the range excluding the metallic paints are probably most comparable in consistency to Citadel Layer paints. Game Colors are nice. Rob has spent most of the last 15 years playing World of Warcraft and writing stories set in made-up worlds. The first is making sure youve got a little elbow grease spare the paints require a lot of shaking to get them to mix to the correct consistency. Hopefully the whole set will return in the near-future.
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