So what Im left with is some bare cmu, some paint, and some concrete patch areas. I have a 1950s CMU garage. This website is so helpfulthank you. Basically that easy. Do I need to re-prime the surface given the age? Priming is an easier alternative that will provide the increased bond you desire. Theres always better primers, STIX by Insl-X is really good but expensive. Silicone isnt paintable and there is no primer that will stick to it. Is that true? Is there something else I should be doing? Who ever put it there should clean it up. The only other option is to scrape and paint. If you roll it on you should be able to fill most pores. But can you paint cinder block walls that are placed in the exterior? A good primer to use for chalky surfaces is Zinsser 123. Powerwashing doesnt seem to do the trick. It was painted years ago, I have been pressure washing it. Hi, i have a newly built home in FL and im looking to point the garage which has cinderblocks on both sides. Its a old ground face block from the 50-70s. How to Use a Paint Sprayer with an Air Compressor. Thanks for the quick reply. Back rolling is a great way to produce a better looking result even without the need for primer. Cinder blocks are rectangular blocks made out of concrete, used in many different types of construction. What should i do about the crumbling concrete? This would be the same as any masonry surface. It just ticks me off when people take shortcuts b/c they dont want to do quality work. If you have a lot of stains then the restoration primer would be better. The bubbling is a bit perplexing; even cheap paint should go on without bubbling. (I am hoping there is some sort of flashing installed that would take care of that area.) Work the material well but dont over work it, you will know when that happens. 1) in my scenario, is it better to use a block filler primer or a typical masonry primer before painting? Any remaining loose paint will need to be removed manually. Its just a bit drab, so Id like to lighten it up. I have used LaHabra Stucco with good results. Same goes for under the deck, a pain but if it is visible then it should be painted. On interior surfaces use a scrub brush to fully remove stubborn deposits. I never heard of it, might something more regional. I never expected to do all this, of course it is only 2 windows. . P.S. Hi, Ive no particular question to ask at the moment, but Im interested in using block in future, so Ive been reading many of the questions and answers here. The difference of texture will drastically alter the amount of primer and finish paint needed. Add 20% to the materials total for spraying and surface texture. I cant imagine any builder using cinder block for basement walls. I ended up power washing the day before and it most not have rained much if at all overnight as I didnt have to redo it the next day. My project is preparing new 16 concrete blocks which will sit outside in a wet climate and perform the function of providing weight and support for the legs of an outdoor canopy at the entrance of our residence. Any good exterior house paint will do the job if applied thickly, 2 coats maybe, and back-rolled to help seal up the pores. If you think there is excessive water vapor in the block wall then use the Dryloc, better product all around. The backer-rod needs to be slightly thicker than the expansion joint, example- a 3/4 inch joint needs 1 inch foam backer-rod. We put bondcrete on it first than we painted it with water based paint. First Id like to say this page has been a fantastic resource, thank you! Hi there! Any descent paint will do but priming will still be needed. I am preparing to repaint exterior of my 1945 block house. Make sure the walls are clean before starting the painting. I poured what the sprayer pick up couldnt get to into the paint roller tray, then ended up dunking the intake tube into a bucket of water and proceeded to use the water to force the left over water in the spray hose out onto the wall. Thank you so much for providing such valuable information, and taking the time to answer questions. Use a commercial style pressure washer and at least 2500 psi. Most excellent thread. I cannot find this addressed here or anywhere else. I just realized that the concrete block which is sealed from the outside as well, now has no way to breathe due to being sealed on both sides. amzn_assoc_search_bar_position = "top"; If you think this will come back elsewhere in the near future then spot priming and spot painting is a better bet. How would I go about this? If there is a very hard enamel like paint, epoxy maybe, then priming will be needed. When in doubt use a primer. Or are we stuck with trying to paint over the chipping red areas in grey? The answer is yes! I bought Seal Krete to waterproof the stucco but the label says do not use if the temp drops below 50 degrees in 24 hours. I bought Behr Dry Plus- Masonry Waterproofer. Plus paint will do a better overall job.
How old is the current paint and what shape is it in? Finishes with a higher sheen, semi-gloss or satin, will be easier to clean and maintain. Apply a heavy coat of paint with a thick roller and really try to make sure the pores are filled, especially the to of the fence wall. 2. We are finally getting around to painting it. A few questions The Zinsser 123 is a good primer that adheres well to difficult surfaces, is readily available and reasonably priced. 100% acrylic paints are the standard now days and most likely all that is available at Lowes. The best stuff says "elastomeric" and the cheaper grade says Stucco and masonry paint. LC. This will give you more predictable coverage for the epoxy. Is Benjamin Moore Aura exterior a good option also? I dont know if what is on the wall is a block sealant or plain old paint? It looks new and wonderful and we saved thousands of dollars doing it ourselves. I get easily confused about anything, my understanding of what I hear or read is often inaccurate, but I persevere, dont want no potty, but do like others to be patient & I guess tolerable of me. I plan to scrape away all loose paint and then will do a wash with TSP. Then about anything will do but I'd go with latex. wait a couple weeks before applying acrylic blockfill primer, recommended before any paint is applied. Really tough. Wonderful site, Thank you! This will help stabilize the wall and keep the moisture from becoming a problem in the future. First wash everything and kill the mold. The rest shouldnt need priming but you can test the original paint by rubbing the paint some alcohol, rubbing or denatured. You might need to look for a local stucco supplier for the materials or use Rapid Set Motor Mix or Cement All for the base repair and possibly the texture coat as well depending on the look your after. Original wood was all that super dark brown color from the 70s. So far, Ive not had any issues using polycrylicmeaning no ones called me complainingwell not yet anywayYou are correct about the sparathane Varathane Marine spar urethane is the only stuff that actually lives up to its UV protection claims,.Ive only seen it in spray cans, and tbh Ive never looked for gallons of it, but now I will. Its not a high visible part of the house, so it doesnt need to look great, but I do want to do a proper, if amateur, job. And he could be right.
There is no obvious cracks or holes, should I just clean it with brush and paint with any interior paint? Can I just dry brush and vacuum all loose debris, or do I need some other chemical and let dry? Typical coverage for Block Fill is 200 square feet per gallon on smooth block and 100 square feet on split-face block. Mold along the edge, especially with carpet, is also an indication of problems. Thank you in advance. Polyurethane caulkings must be primed before painting, oil base primer. The best caulk is a good urethane, Sherwin Williams Shermax will work well. Personally, I would use a 1/2 or maybe 3/4 inch roller. amzn_assoc_ad_type = "smart"; But dont worry, this doesnt mean that you necessarily have to buy specific specialized masonry paint. Large professional units can be rented. I sprayed the paint and back rolled but ended up running short on the last 8 ft x 5 ft section or so. What is the Best Paint for Cinder Block Walls? Youll need to push the primer, at least 1 coat, into the block to fill the pores. We repaired an outside wall and are anxious to put the house back together before school starts as it is a bedroom. I live in a dry climate in southern california. Can we add sand to the primer or paint to achieve the desired effect? You can use either a traditional lime wash or a thinned masonry stain. A couple cups of vinegar per gallon of warm water with a 1/4 cup TSP will do a good job, rinsing will be needed. Wed like to bring them back to natural grey. Yes, you can put any top coat desired over the block filler. Stripping shouldnt be necessary. Since you dont know the type of paint last use the first thing to do is prime the block. Zinsser 123 or equivalent. What are your thoughts on Loxon primer, maybe even the combined primer and topcoat version. A sanded elastomeric paint might work if available. How long should I expect it too last? A suitable spray pattern is the 15 degree tip held 12 inches from the surface. Is it safe to seal and paint if planning to add something on the top of this in a 1-2 years? TSP, hot water and a scrub will be your best cleaning option. The Watertite will work well. I get confused about when to do my caulking, before or after I apply Drilock sealant / primer??? Older basement 50s, cinder block, Was painted white, with with some areas of Efflorescence. Thanks. I scraped off all loose concrete and power washed it today. The maintenance should be easy, scrape a little and repaint. This is a two-person operation. Was going to caulk some hairline cracks, but I just remembered you said to do that after putting on my Drylock (primer & sealer). We have repainted our 1959 Florida concrete block house with great success! Instead, you can just use a block filler primer that is specifically formulated for things such as cinder blocks. I would wait for a few days, maybe 5-7 days, for excess moisture to leave then prime and paint as usual. We have an adorable ranch house and I would love something that looks as nice as possible, which is why Im looking into the RollerRock, and I dont think plain latex paint will give me that. Drywall mud might work to smooth the block, then prime and paint with the back-ground color. I dont know if a bonding primer is needed, I would think not. Do I need to prime before putting on a new color? We are along a creek and in a flood zone and it will flood at some point. Is that a good plan or is that overkill? Would a concrete conditioner prior to painting be effective? Thanks! Sanding the block walls seems like it wouldnt work. At this point wash off the streaks, garden hose and maybe a little scrubbing with a broom, and apply another coat of paint. I was planning on caulking tomorrow, but its calling for rain the next few days, so Ill probably wait. I love this site! The stone veneer is the same. The walls are Ocala block. I have a total of 23 windows. I have spent the last hour reading through these posts and have learned a lot from everyones posts and your comments. The interior is easy. Since his company installed my windows, I might just ask him to redo all the window caulking properly. I can send a pic if it would help. But now when It gets wet the white streaks are coming out of the bricks how can we stop this. I am preparing to install a resistance pool in the 3rd garage space and want the area to be as waterproof as possible. I have a 30 year old cinder block shop, outside painted white and the inside is unpainted. In this case priming isnt needed. In a previous post you noted the acrylic block fill doesnt adhere as well to previously painted services. 1) Yes, the block walls can be painted. My husband said latex would be ok, but I am afraid that it will peel as it did on the interior bedroom wall. The sticking problem is the paint, need to use a better paint. You can prime with the Loxon the next day then paint after that. Correct, use acrylic block fill primer to seal up the block. Should I use a drylock or regular paint? I recently bought a 1980s cabin basement that has rough cinderblock surface, never painted. When we bought it the white paint was chalky and we painted over it. I dont have any questions because the answers are already here. However in a year or so I would like to add some texture (textured concrete or alike) or culture stone or stone. You advise is highly appreciated. Paint could go 5-6 years but could become a nightmare with heavy prep before repainting. Would I be able to use a paint with a primer in it? Thanks again for your time and any advice you give. Sorry for the late reply. Thanks folks. If it is hard to reach and not all that visible then I wouldnt do it. During the preparation pay attention to any loose mortar and large cracks. At this point remove all loose paint and caulking, recaulk were needed then prime. Interior garage walls are unpainted cinderblock which we want to paint. This is such a valuable resource, and you deserve a lot of credit for giving your time and expertise in answering. Use an acrylic bonding primer, Zinsser 123. Thank you for taking the time to answer questions. Apply to all surfaces, inside and out several coats, until saturated with sealer. Can You Use Latex Paint on Metal; including doors (How-to. I plan to use an epoxy primer, 50% solids that claims can be applied 8 mils thick. I dont mind doing a second coat, and normally find that I have to do so, even with a paint that contains a primer. I live in a fairly wet area water does sometimes get into the stairwell, though mostly on the stairs, not through the walls. I recommend Seal Krete concrete sealer or something like it. With interiors your paint choice depends on the use of the wall, room or area. 1. High humidity and cool temps can extend the drying time but acrylic primers, and paints, dry fast and are ready to top coat in just a few hours. I scraped all that would come off, had any loose mortar repaired and cracks filled, and now I must paint. This is done where it is needed only. Damage to the cement foundation could happen if moisture is trapped in the walls. Use a plastic spoon and mineral spirits to tool and smooth the sealant. Its never been painted, and there is some efflorescence. It took alot of the stuff as it is thick and you want to be somewhat generous with it as it is a sealer. God Bless!! I still need to paint the main 14 x 22 garage section. But what type of paint do you use on cinder blocks? We live in South Louisiana what is the safe relative humidity for prime/painting cinder block walls. 3) The paint could be removed with abrasive blasting. Cinder blocks are just concrete, so any paint that works for concrete will work perfectly for the cinder blocks.
I live in Colorado and we have the opposite problem, way to low humidity. The wall was previously painted and spot patched for cracks by previous owner. If your home is older than this testing the existing paint is a good idea. Do I have to apply the product using a thick roller and back brush it? Id now like to paint them. Some paints work better for high humidity areas. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. amzn_assoc_default_search_phrase = "Paint Sprayer"; When it started peeling, pressure washed off just those couple areas and painted again. removing them exposed some block but mostly glue. A properly painted concrete block wall will be virtually maintenance free for many years, but the same wall not properly painted can be a maintenance nightmare. But as a general rule, you will have to use a primer before painting your cinder blocks. (As opposed to the glossy finish that paint has.) While pressure washing the exterior inject the masonry cleaner into the washer and use a scrub broom on persistent areas. My plan after prepping is to wash the walls with non-rinse TSP, paint with Loxon and then finish with the exterior paint recently used to paint the rest of the house. These blocks are very crumbly and leave concrete dust all over the interior of my vehicle. Consult with the sealer manufacture for specific recommendations. Im getting older and just want it to last forever and not have any issues. When in doubt use a low voc primer, Zinsser 123 or equivalent. If purchasing from your local box store them Zinsser 123 will work well. It looks awful, it is the first week of September in Michigan, I work and I am not a young gal anymore. LC. Primer? Overnight will work. It has concrete stain, oil-based paint, then acrylic paint (in that order.) Varathane Spar Urethane, water-based exterior, works well but pricey. Advice appreciated. Each time I put the Glidden paint on, it bubbles and will not stick to the wall or primers. Please give me your advice on how to do the job. Painting concrete block walls always starts with the removal of dust and dirt, efflorescence, and all loose or peeling paint. The homeowner wants a stucco finish but stucco is unavailable in our area. I have some Kilz Mold and Mildew Primer and the Restoration Primer. Though now I have another concern. We just added 5 rows of new cinder block to our existing wall. You must log in or register to reply here. You can apply Seal Krete right over the primer but it would be easier to just apply a coat or 2 of paint instead. You can always add color as an accent; shutters or front window trim or corner trim or front door and/or garage door(s) can be used as accents. Cleaning with TSP isnt needed if the surfaces are clean. The block if fully cured and has a stable PH and open pores. #4 A straight clear sealer will work well and easy to maintain. 4. I also dont know what the material is and am hesitant to keep messing with it. The existing wall is painted, most likely with an acrylic paint as the paint chip is a regular Valspar paint. If you have an article that you would like to publish, then you may, //www.enduracoat.net/Concrete-Sealers/b/2476102011, https://www.paclandinc.com/portfolio/culver-city-90232-cmu-slump-block-wall/. Im looking to paint the cinder block walls in the basement of our 1959 house. Again thank you for helping so many people for so many years! Make sure to seal around all openings, windows and doors etc. Problem for another day! How about this; Working small sections at a time, spray heavy coat then quickly backroll (keep a wet roller in a 5 gallon bucket with some primer, this way the roller wont dry out). Do you have another suggestion for a topcoat that has better UV protection? Do you know of any issues with applying an acrylic/latex system over interior CMU that was previously painted with an oil-based system and then later a water-based one? Windows, doors, roof flashings and roof penetrations also need to be in good shape with any sealants replaced were needed. Was thinking, after scraping, washing with stiff brush a Vinegar/ TSP (combo) Not sure of the mixture, just going to improvise, Unless you have a ratio you recommend). If needed use an acrylic block filler over the primer but you could just apply 1 or 2 heavy coats of elastomeric, Sherwin Williams Sherlastic is good and inexpensive as well. Sherwin Williams ProMar 200 or better. Lee. Since the blocks in some areas are not smooth, I was going to apply 2 coats of acrylic block fill primer Good day. All of these will require similar approaches when preparing the block for the protective finish coat. coating about 1/8 thick. Oh, you dont have to back brush but you want to fill in the open pores of the block. Click here for instructions on how to enable JavaScript in your browser. As I scraped it off there is a chalky green residue between the block & old paint. amzn_assoc_linkid = "199273484cf220e34596d97167062d18"; My concern is that if the paint does not come off with the power wash will we be able to get good mechanical adhesion on the clean painted block? I would like to make sure that paint will not cause that nothing will stick to the wall later? I want to repaint it. Make sure to use enough paint and work it well to fill these pores. At this point it would be a good idea to spend a little extra and apply Dryloc. Some things to look for; You dont have to use an elastomeric. Your email is never published nor shared. At this point paint proceeds as normal. Block-fill primer is apparently also taboo and other products. Polyurethane sealants are very sticky and reduced with mineral spirits. With a pressure wash and assuming not all of the existing paint has come off, when I paint a new coat will the texture of the on-and-off original paint show through? Make sure to clean the surface well, no dust or soot. Thank you so much. DOUBLE CHECK ALL OF THIS INFO!! One side is shaded all the time and built into a hill, seems damp inside. And finally, spray or roll? You could use 1/4 tape and add grout lines, look like pieces of rock. With paint the sealer is tougher than a clear coat and easier to maintain. And if I do the above, do I caulk it before I prime & seal the block, or after. New concrete block, filled with grout. If the block is unpainted (never been painted) then a block fill primer is needed to fill the pores. Exterior block surfaces can be either, but interior block surfaces are always smooth. Also, I was going to repaint the house in spring but u suggested the 123 will harden. Every paint store tells me something different! Overall this is the easiest to apply, easiest to maintain and cheapest way to go and have some color. Something is coming threw the primers, moisture maybe?? Thoughts? If the window installers used silicone caulking then I would have them fix it, if possible. Plain water will remove loose paint and dirt but efflorescence will need chemicals to be neutralized. #2 If you apply a paint you really should prime. I have another question about sealing the completed work. It has been repainted a number of times and layers are not peeling, its in good shape. Do I use semi gloss on cinder block walls? Talk to your local Sherwin Williams store rep about good paint choices for your area. Wash, dry and reapply, in most cases. You might even notice that most graffiti drawings are painted on cinder block walls with spray paints! If you have time, I do have another quick question. My mind tells me to do it before b/c its better for it to be adhered to the cement around the window instead of having it stuck again to paint, b/c paint is not as tough a surface as cement. The previously painted blocks shouldnt need anything as long as they are clean and in good shape. The first step when preparing concrete block walls is pressure washing. Ive already pressure washed the walls with just water. I had a hot tub removed from center of the deck, so it shouldnt be too hard to crawl under it. We can have single digit humidity and paint that drys so fast it cracks if to thick, the surface hardens while the inside film is still a liquid. Luckily, you dont actually need to buy any type of special paint for cinder blocks, as any regular type of paint will work just fine! Soda blasting might be a good option. This is a great site with excellent information! No caulking should be applied to loose paint, all loose must be removed before caulking. But, with proper prep and choice of a high quality materials maintaining the walls shouldnt be a problem. The primer (block fill) and paint dry too fast, not penetrating or sealing well plus all around looking bad. Do I need to be concerned about heat resistance when I select a paint? My interior fireplace is made of split face concrete block and its never been painted. I have 67 feet of an exterior 40 year old cinder block wall on my property. Thanks! I want to power wash the first few feet of cinderblock around the garage in the morning, then paint the second coat within a couple hours. For a better seal use Drylok as a primer. You can always prime over the test area. What would you recommend in this scenario? The primer just needs to dry overnight in most cases. Sherwin-Williams makes a product called Loxon which we have used with great success. For the other mentioned options; Prime the block then apply drywall compound to smooth it out. What paint should I use on top of it? Above all, I want to be able to clean the blocks periodically with light pressure-watching (to remove the inevitable mold, moss, and algae). 2 heavy rolled or back rolled coats of primer should work. Best to paint over all primers with in a week or so. I dont know of any other easy to apply product that will look as good as the Roller Rock. I asked a paint supplier do i need a primer before i paint my exterior wall which is a large area he said no just 2 coats on and it be ok dont know what to primer or not thanks. Thank you so much for your time and expertise! After hours hes hardly touched on the total job. Specifically, you will need to use filler block primer, as it has been formulated to fill in the porous surface, and to seal it off so that the paint can adhere on top with ease. You can also then, of course, finish the job by applying the right type of sealer that will protect the paint job from the weather conditions, a necessary step for outdoor and exterior walls. It was pricy so we are hoping to get it right the first time ; ). We considered stuccoing it but our smart guy has suggested we do an Elastomeric coating. Block fill doesnt stick well to previous coatings, like old oil based paint. Do I seal the interior or do I seal the exterior? You can use a regular paint. On their side they have a low planter about 2 deep with bamboo that they water regularly. Just getting ready to move into a house with a exterior fireplace box and chimney of cinderblock that has been previously been painted which has now been severely worn away. You seem to recommend Acrylic? If spraying, backrolling will be needed. However, some of the white oil-based has peeled off also to reveal the old dark green concrete stain. Also do you recommend Valspar or a different paint? It has never been painted, stained or otherwise treated in any way. The waterborne urethanes will work well but nothing lasts as long as you want. Real world recommendation for safe max humidity is anything over 80% will be a major problem. Choosing a good quality paint and applying 2 coats on everything will help. The main considerations you need to think about are new and unpainted, condition of existing finish and type of concrete block. The stain will be soaked into the surface of the cinder block, to give it that permanent new color, but it will not affect the structural integrity of the cinder blocks in the slightest, so you can rest assured that no damage will be caused by staining your cinder blocks! We have to reseal basement cinderblock. It can depend on the type of paint that you are using. When painting a newly built exterior cinder block wall, how long do you have to wait to paint? Just plain paint. These concrete blocks have never been painted. A masonry stain will be a better choice, solid color acrylic masonry stain. Perma-Flex is used as the top coat and is tinted. Ive scraped the paint and wire brushed the blocks. The bottom two feet of the block have efflorescence and the paint is bubbled but there are also areas where the block is actually crumbling. I have a couple questions as I read through the different posts: I ended up getting water on the wall in some spots as a couple minutes later, the Greige paint had brown streaks in it. I have the equipment to go out and sandblast the block but my partner feels the sandblasting will be to aggressive and wear out the old blocks and create a worse problem. I did have a painter come out, finally and recommended Holzer primer. Do I need to prime the walls first? Just a wiping with warm water for surface dust or a little mild dish soap for some problem areas, no-rinse TSP can also be used for grease or particularly dirty areas. The primer should be backrolled. What Kind of Paint Do You Use on Laminate? That removed a lot of dirt. If it softens then it is a latex (regular) type of paint and no priming is needed. Click here for instructions on how to enable JavaScript in your browser. The good stuff really is nice-and is a high build coating that forms a rubber-like sheet surface. Weve established that cinder blocks can be painted, and you can in fact use most types of paints with them without any issues whatsoever. Lift off the peeling paint with a stiff putty knife or paint scraper. I typically use both acrylic and latex paint, with a retarder to prevent it drying too quickly. Im not sure what product was used but understand that it was from a professional commercial line. For the primer use Drylok, or similar, on the moisture problem areas. Home is cement block painted with latex, the wood trim, sides and patio repainted years back with oil base paint with extra linseed oil added and it soaked up a couple of coats then painted over with latex (HD Behr high gloss white lasted about 15+ years now its peeling and looks really bad on the south and west sides of home, maybe have some wood rot, the block has a chalky feel when you run your fingers along it.
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