In that position, it was necessary for the carburetor to dump as much fuel as possible into the engine just to keep it running and was the cause for the plugs gas-fouling after 20 minutes or so. Just a couple of fine-tuning adjustments and my tractor was purring at 400 rpm without hiccuping or stalling out. done this on many old tractor carbs to make them purr again. Toss a condenser in it. The old man I got it from just put new points/condenser in it before I bought it. I figured I would start a new thread since I think this is a different problem. The distributor was new to the engine as described in the original posting, but more precisely was a used distributor and apparently possessed problems of its own like the original. Russell Rigsby Thanks to everyone that posted a reply to our problem, which turned out to be in the distributor. Now it doesn't seem to matter what I do or adjust. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Installed perfectly just like the old one . Also, the secondary air mixture screw has no effect on engine idling or performance as well, either adjusting all the way in or out does not change engine idle or fuel air balance. Still stalling out and running rough when I turn the throttle up. It will soon be cleaning time I think for your machine. Of course I could be wrong, but you have the exact same symptoms that I had. Thanks! put on a newer carb from a different 8n that ran good 3 years ago before parked, when I went to start, it would bog down if I didnt have the choke half way out. I had to turn the main jet needle almost all the way out ta get the motor to run smooth without using choke. Replaced carburetor with new one and still have the same problem. Make sure the resistor is wired correctly and that it's good, put on a new coil. IN is rich, OUT is lean! Engine runs extremely well now and has plenty of power. Check by running under load and idling to make sure everything works as described, You have to pull that brass packing holder out use a small screwdriver and gently pry the, new seal is installed with the open end in like all seals the choke bushing is the same, Manual will be automatically added to "My Manuals", Tractor Ford 2000 Operator's Handbook Manual. "datePublished": "2003-03-31", ign switch - - jumper around it when symptoms occur, condenser - - known to be bad right out of the box. JavaScript is disabled. A family friendly forum community dedicated to all Tractor owners and enthusiasts. as well. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. COIL!!! "interactionType": "https://schema.org/CommentAction", Dell reminds us that most fuel problems are solved by fixing the electrical system. are notorious for floats going bad and taking on gas, shake the float to see if this has happened. I did need to adjust a few air and fuel screws, but my tractor had sat for almost 2 years. The Fora platform includes forum software by XenForo, https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1010371/Ford-8n-8nan.html, https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-phfCT71-21__24250.1599054569.jpg?c=2&imbypass=on, VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter Street, Suite 600, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. They do fail over time. Though that doesn't explain the 20 minutes which is more common with a bad coil. The main jet should be at 1 to 1 1/2 turns out from seated as a starting point try it then if it stalls open the jet a 1/2 turn and try again. been fighting my old shebler for a couple years now finally took the leap and for $100 and 5 minutes i am back to running like new with my 8n. "image": { We discovered it by seeing it in a picture in the manual we received. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more! Your recently viewed items and featured recommendations, Select the department you want to search in, I'm so glad I read others reviews before I purchased this carb, Reviewed in the United States on August 29, 2016. Idle mixture is BACKWARDS from most automotive carbs, as it controls AIR bleed, not fuel. Float drop is important too, the float can potentially hang open if it drops too far, can't remember what that spec is, I think around 1 9/16" or so. I would take the carb to them & show them the part you need. "headline":"1941 Ford 9N Carburetor problems ", Well, I adjusted the main mixture and it didn't seem to help. The engine fired right up with the carburetor jet in place and all adjustments were working properly. One little problem were the mounting studs and nuts, too soft and would not hold torque . It used to run pretty good until the bondo and bailing wire that was holding the bellcrank mount on the governor came loose and I couldn't get the throttle to advance beyond an idle. You are using an out of date browser. if anyone is like me and skeptical about trying online products, think no longer for this one. you will need to open up the main jet , if it is adjustable & already out to the limit . After numerous adjustments, it was still no better. "width": 200, If you need the choke out when the engine is warm, you have a fuel starvation issue. It could be the main jet needs cleaning or even a very fine enlarging, but there are other issues like flow into the bowl or filters etc. Make sure you've thoroughly checked you ignition for nice whiteish/blue spark. It would stall as soon as I dropped it in the grass. "interactionStatistic": { The engine fired right up with the carburetor jet in place and all adjustments were working properly. The wire should be soft and supple, and should be wire core (like Packard 440) , not carbon core as used in modern autos. If a replacement does NOT fix the problem, then you may have an extra 'good' coil. So, I adjusted the carb as the manual says and with some help on other websites. thanks again to everyone who offered their help and advice. engine and warm it up fully. Finally, set the idle mixture. Antique Tractors - Yesterday's Tractors : Antique Tractor Headquarters. JavaScript is disabled. If the spark checks out OK, I'd check these next. Enter Our Dog Days of Summer BBQ Giveaway Now! You are using an out of date browser. All the way in is less air, so max rich! Reviewed in the United States on November 7, 2016. if i would have known that this was so easy i would have done it years ago. - went back last evening and it started and ran fine - maybe I had the key off? I have had the experience that as the filter or settling bulb plugs or the fuel line gets obstructed or the carburettor with out any of these items gets grit into the jets a little choke becomes necessary to pull the gas through to keep the engine running. Reviewed in the United States on February 4, 2020. When I adjust the idle mixture screw all the way in, it doesn't stall.. Reviewed in the United States on April 29, 2019, very nice fit, looks great. Make sure you've thoroughly checked you ignition for nice whiteish/blue spark. Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them. The dying after 20 minutes suggests either a coil going bad (overheating) or blocked fuel screens. great product. Nothing lose or leaking, that I can see anyway. these old engines were designed to run real gasoline, this junk they sell today will not run correctly. The cost was minimal for the piece of mind to rule out the carburetor as a potential problem. "publisher": { problems with both carbs on both tractors. }, The timing indicator tab on the exterior of the distributor under the adjustment bolt was missing and subsequently there was no way for us to have known it was supposed to be there and the timing to be located at the far other end from where it was. If spark is good, you should have detonation of fuel UNLESS your compression is bad or if timing is way, way off. "@type": "Organization", started right up. With the hand throttle in the idle position, adjust the throttle. coil - - the most likely suspect. Good luck. Hard to re-start. Any blue arcing or glow in the high tension wires, and you wil have found your issue. Please use the navigational links to explore our website. Pull a plug wire and check the color of the spark and tell us if it is blue or yellow. I have a 1940 9N, that has run like a top since I bought it last year. My ford 8N started right up with hardly an adjustment. "userInteractionCount": 7 Also the seat of the needle & seat assembly may have loosened and started backing out. Seem to work fine. This page works best with JavaScript. As soon as the throttle lever hits the carb, it wants to stall. It is either poor timing (too advanced) or an intake value that is stuck/bent. I have a 1947 ford 8n tractor that I bought from someone that didnt run. Fresh fuel and a thorough clean of every part of the carb, and see that there is good fuel-flow to the carb. Any attempt to replace the fuel adjustment rod while running stalls the engine. Anyway, you gotta get this right. The price was reasonable and it arrived quickly and was exactly as described. }, The distributor was new to the engine as described in the original posting, but more precisely was a used distributor and apparently possessed problems of its own like the original. As the others have said firing order, bad valve. They can break down with age, shorting or cross firing when the electrical resistance in the wire covers goes bad. Copyright 2000-2020 by, SmokStak Steam Traction and Tractor Forums. Did you get a new aftermarket governor, to replace the old one..?? Even new floats hang up must. I had to bump mine up a half turn. After installation was done, turned the knob on the fuel bowl, watched the fuel flow. ", You may need to adjust the throtlle adjustment screw up or, down as you do this. When running, engine backfires through intake and runs rough and has no power. Check plug wires..Firing order is 1243..These motors will run if the wires are crossed.. Good carb and almost as cheap as a rebuild kit, Reviewed in the United States on September 17, 2021. Reviewed in the United States on July 14, 2022. "dateModified": "2003-03-31", Though that doesn't explain the 20 minutes which is more common with a bad coil. A forum community dedicated to all tractor owners and enthusiasts. Would appreciate any help or ideas anyone has about the cause of the problem. Another way to check your float for leakage (pinhole leak) is to put it in a small container of gasoline an see if one side sinks deeper relative to the other side. Turn the idle air screw in or out until you find the points where it, starts to run rough (too rich and too lean a mixture) then put the screw halfway between. The dying after 20 minutes suggests either a coil going bad (overheating) or blocked fuel screens. Come join the discussion about specifications, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more! Three main possibilities: ign switch - - jumper around it when symptoms occur condenser - - known to be bad right out of the box coil - - the most likely suspect. Any pictures of your mocheene? Please make sure that you are posting in the form of a question. The main jet can be removed with this plug out but be sure you have the exact size screwdriver for the jet and be careful - it is brass and easily broken. I'm stumped. If you don't have it, you have to get it before you can properly diagnose a fuel problem. We never did change out the spark plug wires. I found this. It does sound like you might have more than one problem here. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It is either poor timing (too advanced) or an intake value that is stuck/bent. Commit thy way unto the LORD; trust also in him; and he shall bring it to pass. - either it was not simply a drain plug, or I reassembled something wrong. What I am saying is that pulling the choke uses engine suction to take more of the gas through when enough is not making its way on its own. I had a 8N that did the same thing, I found the main adjustment threads waowed out and sucking air, new carb fixed the proplem. engine picks up smoothly. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V. window.dataLayer=window.dataLayer||[];function gtag(){dataLayer.push(arguments);}gtag('js',new Date());gtag('config','G-04SJ2KTSCK',{cookie_flags:'max-age=7200;secure;samesite=none'}); Welcome! I will check that out tomorrow. The timing advance plate was frozen solid due to corrosion and was stuck in a position that caused the timing to be extremely retarded. redid all the electrical. Come join the discussion about farming, lawn maintenance, restoration, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more! Backfire is not caused by a fuel problem. As the others have said firing order, bad valve. "@context":"https://schema.org", After some minor adjusting, it ran/pulled fine. In this case you must disassemble, the body and try to bend the float just a little. I use it for mowing and plowing snow. After thoroughly reading a manual that was ordered, we removed the distributor, dislodged the frozen plate and adjusted the timing with a straight-edge in accordance with the manual. The Fora platform includes forum software by XenForo, http://www.mytractorforum.com/38-ford-ns-9n-2n-8n/769274-does-my-governor-need-rebuilt.html, Backyard Round Table: L & G Tractor Related Topics, VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter Street, Suite 600, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. When I opened the throttle full it quickly rose to 2200 rpm--again without stalling out or hiccuping. "text": "Neighbor and I share a 1941 Ford 9N. Make sure the resistor is wired correctly and that it's good, put on a new coil. It lives again! Next, set the idle speed. It is merely a vent for the throat of the carb, to let any liquids drain out but not allow dirt into the throat area. Make sure you've thoroughly checked you ignition for nice whiteish/blue spark. My '49(?) Mike Check plug wires..Firing order is 1243..These motors will run if the wires are crossed.. } After thoroughly reading a manual that was ordered, we removed the distributor, dislodged the frozen plate and adjusted the timing with a straight-edge in accordance with the manual. Re-assemble and test again. Of course I could be wrong, but you have the exact same symptoms that I had. If the rpms rev higher you could be sucking air. Start the. I read a comment from a guy online stating that he removed the float and found that the float had fuel in it from a tiny pin hole leak. Works great on my 1949 9N. i found a 49 8n this past week has water coming out the exhaust and rear lift is weak other wise tractor is clean owner may sell since i now mow his pasture he said he might sell for 1500$, They must have gotten you the wrong part. Any adjustment to the main mixture makes it worse or does nothing. thanks Thanks to everyone that posted a reply to our problem, which turned out to be in the distributor. You can still see all customer reviews for the product. Reviewed in the United States on July 26, 2016. Very impressed and look forward to getting to work pushing snow. I have recently started having to use the choke so the engine will run smoothly after reaching operating temperature. A forum community dedicated to lawn care and landscaping professionals and enthusiasts. The distributor was new to the engine as described in the original posting, but more precisely was a used distributor and apparently possessed problems of its own like the original. The Fora platform includes forum software by XenForo, Outdoor Hub, LLC (d/b/a Carbon Media Group), 30800 Telegraph Rd, Suite 1921, Bingham Farms, MI 48025 USA. JavaScript is disabled. "@type": "WebPage", What a difference this carburetor made on my 1948 Ford 8N! I just changed the governor and that helped but I still didn't have enough power to run my brush hog. Always consult equipment operator's manual and follow safety instructions before operating or servicing any tractor or equipment, or attempting any task. Ok, thanks Barnstormer. the carb was taken off another 8n tractor that ran good 3 years ago. You must log in or register to reply here. meaning 2 different parts. Hope it helps, Al COIL!!! The timing indicator tab on the exterior of the distributor under the adjustment bolt was missing and subsequently there was no way for us to have known it was supposed to be there and the timing to be located at the far other end from where it was. I have to back the throttle way off back down to idle to keep it running, then when I advance it again it starts lurching again. you may need to redrill the metering jet inside the carb. It may be difficult to hear or sense fuel sloshing inside a leaking float. The large plug underneath is a drain for the main jet well - debris collects here first and will cause serious running problems. I noticed one thing, it runs much better at about 40% choke. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. We discovered it by seeing it in a picture in the manual we received. The timing advance plate was frozen solid due to corrosion and was stuck in a position that caused the timing to be extremely retarded. Backfire is not caused by a fuel problem. "logo": { - Skip, I posted to the N-forum, and there was given the John Deere cross-ref part number (75-98) for a replacement 'strainer', as it's called. "@id":"https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=nboard&th=374386", Here's the thread about my governor problem. Right-side-up air will pass easily. Hope it helps, Al The part about running rough after it heats up are symptomatic of a bad coil,however since you said it does restart but hard I wouldn't rule out a crack in the manifold either.This can be checked by spraying a little wd40 or carb spray around the manifold while its running.Be careful. Reviewed in the United States on July 10, 2022. Then occasionally the carb floods and gas pours out the carb. No need to purchase the suggested Tisco 9N9553 Strainer Assembly, the carb comes with it, along with spark plugs, points studs, nuts, 3 gaskets and a rubber hose I haven't figured out yet. It does sound like you might have more than one problem here. The Rubbing blocks on the points are wearing and your gap is decreasing. Steve here is a better website to post this question. I got the idle down and it sounded almost perfect at full throttle. -Psalm 37:5-. The N series carb has 3 adjustments, the idle air screw (on the right side of the carb), the main adjustment screw (on the front of the carb) and the throttle adjustment screw, Any adjustment is useless unless the timing is checked and correct and the plugs are, Turn the main adjustment screw and the idle air screw in until you feel them "seat" -, don't force them, just finger pressure. I only wanted a fresh new look but something isnt right twice. As the others have said firing order, bad valve. I tried adjusting the main jet 1/4 turn at the time out to 3.5 turns doesnt seem to get enough instant fuel, Reviewed in the United States on February 7, 2020. Top subscription boxes right to your door, 1996-2022, Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates, Ford 8N 9N 2N Carburetor TSX33, TSX241A, Zenith, 0-13876, Learn more how customers reviews work on Amazon, See all details for Ford 8N 9N 2N Carburetor TSX33, TSX241A, Zenith, 0-13876. If spark is good, you should have detonation of fuel UNLESS your compression is bad or if timing is way, way off. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we dont use a simple average. "@id": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/" Wire breakdown will be especially noticable in damp weather and or under load. ordered another for my other 8n ford. Looks like I need to check my points. They do fail over time. "height": 57 I had trouble with the 90 fuel elbow filter lining up with the new fuel line I purchased as well. screw until the engine is running at 400 rpm. "description":"Discussion of 1941 Ford 9N Carburetor problems in the Tractors forum followed by comments. }. Make sure your air cleaner is clear of any nests or such though that wouldn't explain the backfiring. Back each screw out one full turn. If there was a screw in there, a rebuilder must have installed it. Carb is a perfect fit. Once plugs have been cleaned and fuel adjustment rod is removed, engine starts and runs fine for approximately 20 minutes, then starts rough idling and finally stalls. The part about running rough after it heats up are symptomatic of a bad coil,however since you said it does restart but hard I wouldn't rule out a crack in the manifold either.This can be checked by spraying a little wd40 or carb spray around the manifold while its running.Be careful. You can go that route until it quits and then clean it.you can also reduce plugging by cleaning additives added to the fuel. I will go play with the main mixture and see if I can get it to work. After completely assembled, and a test run, he told me the governor did not activate right. hth MountainmanCA Dell reminds us that most fuel problems are solved by fixing the electrical system. After viewing product detail pages, look here to find an easy way to navigate back to pages you are interested in. Fast shipping, arrived exactly as advertised, very reasonably priced. It does sound like you might have more than one problem here. I got about 15 feet and it stalled. We discovered it by seeing it in a picture in the manual we received. I climbed into the seat and she fired right up! Make sure your air cleaner is clear of any nests or such though that wouldn't explain the backfiring. Any help? The old carburetor had gotten water in it, which because it sits lower than the fuel tank can commonly happen (especially if the fuel line isn't shut off.) The engine fired right up with the carburetor jet in place and all adjustments were working properly. As a owner of a fleet of these N series tractors and your description of the problem points me to a problem I have had with over 3 dozen of mine. If you don't have it, you have to get it before you can properly diagnose a fuel problem. "name": "Russell Rigsby" Can anyone tell me what that part is? "name": "Yesterday's Tractor Co.", In that position, it was necessary for the carburetor to dump as much fuel as possible into the engine just to keep it running and was the cause for the plugs gas-fouling after 20 minutes or so. Marvel Schebler carbs. If all is well, have a look at the ignition wires themselves. Make sure the resistor is wired correctly and that it's good, put on a new coil. hth MountainmanCA Make sure your air cleaner is clear of any nests or such though that wouldn't explain the backfiring. When you increase the RPM's the points tend to float and cause you to loose power making you think you have carburetor problems since your having to pull the choke knob. It is either poor timing (too advanced) or an intake value that is stuck/bent. "A Community of Antique Engine Enthusiasts." The carburetor came assembled and ready to use, which included bench tuned. COIL!!! Thanks again, guys! I put the old carbs back on and that goes away. Repeat this, process (a dozen times or more) until you get it right. }, After trying to accelerate and move around both have issues under load for a few seconds. Mike The part about running rough after it heats up are symptomatic of a bad coil,however since you said it does restart but hard I wouldn't rule out a crack in the manifold either.This can be checked by spraying a little wd40 or carb spray around the manifold while its running.Be careful. thanks again to everyone who offered their help and advice. With the engine under medium to heavy load at half-throttle, snap the hand throttle open to "full". The small adjusting screw on the carb is the idle mixture - adjust it with the engine at low idle. The timing advance plate was frozen solid due to corrosion and was stuck in a position that caused the timing to be extremely retarded. The float can be roughly adjusted if you turn the carb upside down and the float should be very close to parallel to the airhorn gasket surface, gasket in place. Adjust the idle air screw, in or out, until the engine runs, smoothly at about 400 rpm. Before turning the ignition key off, close the valve on the fuel line and let it run until it completely runs out of gas and stalls. The idle screw is bass akwards in for rich and out for lean so when you screw it all the way in your adding fuel. I removed the lower body, and reinstalled with a temporary plug, but now misses badly. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. If rod is in place prior to starting, engine will not start or run. Use a new gasket when you mount the carb to the manifold. }, If there was, there's a good possibility some went beyond that, and may be plugging the elbow strainer in the carb., IF there is even one left in there. I have it out about 5 turns. Russell Rigsby Dell reminds us that most fuel problems are solved by fixing the electrical system. In that position, it was necessary for the carburetor to dump as much fuel as possible into the engine just to keep it running and was the cause for the plugs gas-fouling after 20 minutes or so. The only thing I've had to adjust is the idle screw. something must be clogged in the carburator. If the ignition timing is too retarded you can get backfiring through the carb and will cause low power. Three main possibilities: ign switch - - jumper around it when symptoms occur condenser - - known to be bad right out of the box coil - - the most likely suspect. And beyond that, could be the discharge nozzle, cross drilled holes plugged to. no adjustments needed and fires right up. After thoroughly reading a manual that was ordered, we removed the distributor, dislodged the frozen plate and adjusted the timing with a straight-edge in accordance with the manual. If a replacement does NOT fix the problem, then you may have an extra 'good' coil. the manual say the main jet should only be turned out 2 turns or so. It may not display this or other websites correctly. If my dog doesn't like you, there's a good chance I won't either. Cleaned it several times . I had the same symptoms with mine. If the ignition timing is too retarded you can get backfiring through the carb and will cause low power. Went back through all three adjustments on the carb. He finally tore the governor apart, and discovered the cross drilled hole in the lever shaft the thrust fork pins too, was way off, compared to the OEM arm. That means there is a definite plug in the flow that has to be removed and this problem generally slowly gets worse until the engine won''t stay running. So I took off the air cleaner tube, sprayed it all down with carb cleaner and blew it out. Welcome to the forum! Check plug wires..Firing order is 1243..These motors will run if the wires are crossed.. I would think that the carb is getting out of adjustment or you have an intake leak somewhere, but there are some super savoy 9N members here that would likely shed more light on this for you. If it, "coughs" or "stutters" unscrew the main screw about 1/8 of a turn and repeat until the. OK, I got my $6 part at the JD dealer yesterday. Spark plugs are wet with fuel when removed. "@type": "InteractionCounter", I cleaned out the fuel filters and checked to make sure it's getting plenty of fuel. A buddy of mine did a complete rebuild on his 9N last year, and I found a place that had the internals at a much more reasonable price. Yes, I got a whole new aftermarket governor. Might be the thing to try next. If the rpms rev higher you could be sucking air. He used the OEM arm, and re-assembled. Would order again. engine warm you can fine tune the mixtures. Initial settings on the, mixture screws are to turn them all the way in and then back each out 1 turn. Check the inside of the distribution cap and rotor for carbon tracking and or corrosion at the distribution spark contacts. Have to unscrew and remove the carburetor main fuel adjustment rod entirely before the engine will run smoothly. "@type": "ImageObject", When in gear it lurches forward, then starts to die, then lurches forward again. Closer inspection revealed a recessed screw had fallen out. I had the same symptoms with mine. Though that doesn't explain the 20 minutes which is more common with a bad coil. Had to use old ones . The dying after 20 minutes suggests either a coil going bad (overheating) or blocked fuel screens. Well, maybe I'm an Idiot? Reviewed in the United States on June 19, 2020. Head gasket and intake gasket have been replaced. The large screw adjusts the power circuit mixture, adjust it at operating rpms and normal engine temp. Would appreciate any help or ideas anyone has about the cause of the problem. The old arm was still good, but the internals came as a kit.so got the whole thing. Any suggestions? I decided to take it for a spin and see how it acted under load. have been a casting irregularity in the body. If you have the actual spec., use a drill bit of the proper size as a gauge to measure from the top of the float to the gasket surface. What would cause this? Of course I could be wrong, but you have the exact same symptoms that I had. }
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